THE SHORT VERSION / What to eat in Accra
The foods to try in Accra during Detty December are waakye, Ghana jollof, banku with grilled tilapia, kenkey with fried fish, fufu with light soup, red-red, kelewele, chichinga kebabs and Ghanaian bofrot. Drink sobolo, Ghana's chilled hibiscus drink.
- Breakfast
- Waakye
- Must-try
- Banku and tilapia
- Street snack
- Kelewele
- Comfort
- Fufu and light soup
- Drink
- Sobolo
- Where
- Chop bars, street stalls
The 15 Ghanaian foods to try in Accra
Rice and beans
- Waakye: rice and beans cooked with sorghum leaves, served with shito (black pepper sauce), gari, spaghetti, egg and fish. The best breakfast in Accra.
- Ghana jollof: made with fragrant rice and more spice than the Nigerian version. Pick a side.
- Red-red: bean stew in palm oil with fried ripe plantain. Cheap, filling and delicious.
Swallows and soups
- Fufu with light soup: pounded cassava and plantain with a spicy tomato-based soup, often with goat.
- Banku with grilled tilapia: fermented corn and cassava dough with whole grilled fish and hot pepper. Eat it with your hands.
- Kenkey with fried fish: fermented corn dough wrapped in leaves, served with fried fish, pepper and shito. A Ga classic.
- Omo tuo with groundnut soup: rice balls in a rich peanut soup, traditionally a Sunday meal.
Street food and snacks
- Kelewele: spicy fried plantain cubes, the essential Accra night snack.
- Chichinga: Ghanaian kebabs grilled on the roadside.
- Bofrot: Ghanaian doughnuts, like puff-puff.
- Roasted plantain with groundnuts: simple and addictive street food.
- Grilled corn and coconut: sold on the beach.
Drinks
- Sobolo: chilled hibiscus drink with ginger and spices.
- Fresh coconut: straight from the vendor's machete.
- Local beers: Ghanaian lagers are on every bar menu.
Where to eat in Accra
- Chop bars: local canteens serving fufu, banku and soups.
- Waakye stalls: look for the queue in the morning.
- Osu street food: kelewele and kebabs from the evening onwards.
- Restaurants in Osu, Labone, Cantonments and East Legon: modern Ghanaian and international menus.
Ghana jollof vs Nigerian jollof
| Ghana jollof | Nigerian jollof | |
|---|---|---|
| Rice | Fragrant rice, such as jasmine | Long-grain parboiled rice |
| Flavour | More aromatic and spiced | Smoky, especially "party jollof" |
| Served with | Shito, chicken, salad | Fried plantain, chicken, moi moi |
| Verdict | Try both. Declare nothing in public. |
Food safety tips
- Eat where it's busy and freshly cooked.
- Drink bottled or sachet water from sealed packs.
- Shito is spicy: start with a little.
- Carry cedi cash or MoMo for street vendors.
Frequently asked questions
What is Ghana's national dish?
There's no single official national dish, but fufu with light soup, banku with tilapia, waakye and jollof are among Ghana's most loved foods.
What is waakye?
Waakye is rice and beans cooked with sorghum leaves, which give it a reddish-brown colour. It's served with shito, gari, spaghetti, eggs, fish or meat.
What is kelewele?
Kelewele is spicy fried plantain, seasoned with ginger, pepper and spices. It's a popular Accra street snack, especially at night.
